Colombia Motorcycle Adventure Log: Day 5

Ahhhh, slept in. It's not the first time on this trip we were allowed a morning respite, but after yesterday's brutal ride it was the one I needed most. We started our morning in the town of Salento, touring the markets and searching for Buddy, the dog Hailey befriended last night (he didn't turn up). We had little luck finding Christmas presents for the family among the trinkets and wooden carvings.

We finally stumbled on a small shop along the main walking path, its entry adorned with scarves of every color and texture. With Hailey's eye for quality and color, we filtered through and settled on 10 scarves for the women in our lives; Moms, teachers and friends. We didn't haggle over price, as the language barrier was too much for my pre-coffee brain to bear. So we paid the amount listed on the register, 110 million pesos in total (about $40 USD).

As we walked toward our hotel, we spotted a car moving awkwardly up the steep hill ahead. Something about it triggered in my lizard brain, the region from way back when we humans were barely walking on two feet. My sense of fight or flight was coming online. "Hailey, lets move to the other sidewalk." Just then the car stalled, and began rolling backward. It picked up speed, its driver offering little input to direction or brakes.

Soon it was careening toward us, its trajectory near the opposite side of the street. It hit the curb, skipping easily over the sidewalk and slamming into a retaining wall. Concrete cut and ground into the rear end, metal squealing as physics dictated the winner. The car jolted to a stop, its rear wheel thrust into a bed of flora behind the retaining wall. "Whoa!" Hailey said. "That was so cool!"

I checked on the driver. He was unhurt, looking stunned and embarrassed. A glance at the center console revealed a clue as to the cause of the accident. Locals approached from the drivers side, speaking in tones I understood to be concern, though I could not comprehend their words. I took my cue and we moved on.

"Why did he crash?" Hailey asked. "Stick shift is my guess," I replied. "I don't think the driver is used to cars with a manual transmission. There's a stop sign at the top of the hill. He probably stalled the car there, and with the engine off the brakes don't work as well. He likely panicked when he started rolling backward and froze up, and the car ended up crashing." We spent the rest of our walk talking about auto mechanics, ending with a promise that someday, I would teach her to drive stick.

Our ride was quiet, at least compared to the previous day. We rode through the city of Pereira, threading between traffic and pedestrians. As the roads opened up, rain began to fall. Our last 30 miles was all off-road, climbing toward our destination at just over 12,000 feet. "I'm getting bored," Hailey declared over the comm system as Micho and I manhandled our machines through rock and mud. "When will we BE there??"

"Very soon," Micho assured her. "And there is a very special surprise waiting for you there. I am certain you will love it!" This perked Hailey up. I felt her straighten behind me, anticipation replacing her boredom. Around us, the dense foliage opened to reveal a long canyon ledge. Below, the city twinkled in the near-dusk light. A small Lodge came into view ahead, its white walls and black roof in stark contrast to the lush green rainforest. Steam rose from around the building, the faint smell of sulfur filled the air. "There is a hot spring here," Micho explained over the comm. "They built this place around it over 80 years ago."

We parked, and I began the long and methodical process of removing riding gear from Hailey. "We must be quick," Micho said with some urgency. "We have very little time to show Hailey her surprise!" With only our helmets and gloves removed, Micho ushered us up a long, narrow walking path. The path stretched up, cut into the mountainside behind the lodge. Below, a spring fed pool steamed as patrons basked in its warmth.

We arrived at a small clearing, where an elderly man stood waiting. He came straight to Hailey, wordlessly offering a hand and a smile. Tentatively, Hailey took his hand and was led to a collection of small containers, red and white with a flower design emblazoned on their lids. The man took a container, opened it, and filled it with a clear fluid. He beckoned Hailey to open her palm, and placed it there.

Immediately, a flurry of movement pierced the calm evening sky. A hummingbird appeared, then another, and another. Together they glided to Hailey’s hand, landing easily and sipping from the container. Hailey remained frozen, marveling at the tiny birds as they enjoyed the bounty. "That's amazing!" I said, just above a whisper. "I've never seen a hummingbird get so close!"

"They are usually very shy," Micho explained. He pointed at the elderly man. "My friend Jairo here has spent many years training them.” Jairo took another container, filling it with sweet water and placing it on the bill of Hailey's hat. Another hummingbird appeared, hovering over her head and drinking. "This is so cool," Hailey whispered. "This is the coolest thing ever."

We settled into our small room, changing into swim clothes and heading to the spring fed pools. We relaxed, drinking in the warmth against the cold evening sky. When Hailey complained of a headache, we headed back to our room. "It's the altitude, sweetie," I explained. "We need to get you hydrated and fed." I gave her medicine for the pain and brought her drink and a meal. After a few bites she found her bed, and slept.

Tomorrow is our final day of riding in Colombia, and Micho promises more beautiful views and excellent roads. But if Hailey were the judge, today will surely be the one most remembered.