Tech Review: 2017 Yamaha FZ-10

The FZ-10 is a new model for 2017, but because it's based on Yamaha's YZF-R1 it falls into that category of motorcycle that cynics love to hate. So-called parts-bin bikes sometimes don't get the respect of a ground-up design, but Zack Courts has already ridden the FZ-10 and thinks it's worthy of high praise. To read his First Ride and hear about what Yamaha's new naked bike is like to ride, click here.

As for those cynics, yes, the FZ-10 uses parts shared by the base R1 and the budget-minded Yamaha R1S sportbike including the same wheels, headlights, blinkers, frame and suspension, and most of the engine. But think about it, if the R1 is one of the best superbikes on the planet, recycling some parts to make a naked version seems like a great idea. And even with many R1 parts carried over to the new FZ-10, there's still a lot that's new.

Look at the engine, as an example. Yamaha knows that naked bikes spend most of their time on the street so midrange power is paramount. To achieve better performance at lower engine speeds, the FZ-10 has drastically different camshafts (with less duration and 20 percent less overlap), smaller intake ports, and smaller intake valves. This all equates to better cylinder filling and more cylinder pressure at lower revs and thus more power for blasting out of corners and launching away from stop lights. Those updated cams act on steel valves as on the R1 and R1S—none of the R1M’s magnesium and titanium pieces made it into the FZ-10 except for the ti muffler skin.

Below the valves new pistons with dished crowns that reduce the FZ’s compression to 12:1, down from the R1s’ 13:1. The new mill also uses new valve springs, case covers, crankshaft (heavier), fuel-injectors (one per cylinder instead of two), airbox (1.5 liters larger), and an all-new exhaust system. It’s easy to say that the FZ-10 has the same engine as the R1; that’s the idea, after all, both in marketing and in riding experience, but technically it’s much different.

All of this retuning of the R1’s famous crossplane inline-four adds up to what Yamaha say is an 18 percent gain in torque between 4,000 and 8,000 rpm when compared to the superbike, yet the FZ retains the R1’s peak torque output, which we last measured at 73.6 lb.-ft. At 8,700 rpm. Yamaha didn’t mention a peak horsepower number, but it will be well under the R1’s 167 ponies. Peak power isn’t the point here, and with that in mind redline on the FZ-10 is now 12,200, down significantly from 14,500 on the R1.The FZ uses the R1’s close-ratio transmission, but with two more teeth on the rear sprocket for shorter overall gearing.

The brakes use the same Advics caliper bodies and rotors as the R1, but they now have steel pistons instead of aluminum, rubber lines instead of steel, and a standard Brembo master cylinder instead of the beefy, radial-pull Nissin piece on the R1. The suspension is still fully adjustable KYB stuff, now with softer springs in the fork and a stiffer spring in the shock—to account for more heft, a more rearward weight bias, and to deliver a more supple ride.

Ergonomically the FZ is a major departure from the R1, again, all in the name of streetability. Lower pegs provide more legroom, while a new upper triple clamp supports a tapered-aluminum handlebar that’s a full 10.1 inches higher than the R1’s clip-ons. There’s a new one-piece seat as well, which sits 1.2 inches lower than on the R1 and rests on a new steel subframe.

The skeleton of the FZ is the same aluminum twin-spar frame and gullwing swingarm, but the wheelbase is 1.6 inches longer thanks to a longer chain. Yamaha says the FZ-10 weighs in at a claimed 463 with a full tank. That’s 24 pounds heavier than a standard R1 and right in line with naked competition from Europe.

Lastly, the electronics: traction control comes in three flavors and is adjustable on the fly (stop if you want to turn it off). This isn’t the NASA-spec, multi-axis system from the current R1—it’s more akin to the TC system from the previous R1—which is quite good, even if it’s not as cutting edge. Level 3 is most conservative, with early intervention and unadventurous wheelie control, while levels 2 and 1 allow wheelies and a little more slip (respectively) before intervening. Then there’s the non-switchable ABS and, surprisingly, cruise control! TC and cruise control are both manipulated by switches on the left end of the bar; ride modes are toggled via switches on the right side.