You Should Motorcycle Ride To Ecuador’s Historic Haciendas

The bike lumbers down a cobblestone path, bobbing over the Incan stones as it winds around yet another steep cliff. Blooming agave century plants tower overhead, their yellow flowers tilting toward the road, leading the way. The smell of eucalyptus permeates inside my helmet as an antiquated white church sits on the horizon, nestled in the valley below. The road itself is ancient, with much of it left over from the pre-Columbian era, dated before the 15th century, before the Incas took control. The stones are surprisingly level for being replaced by hand, one at a time, still to this day.

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Riding over the magnificent Andes mountains, with their snowcapped volcanoes, rolling landscapes, and lush valleys, will only leave you with an enhanced sense of wonder. The rain shadow effect is strikingly evident, with warm, humid air traveling west from the Amazon rain forest, leaving behind its moisture and lush greenery before rising and cooling over to the drier portion of the Andes mountain range. With each crest of the mountains, the climate and ecosystems change drastically, continually surprising you as you ride.

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Further exploration leads to more stunning diversity, as the variety of vistas reveal a colorful tapestry of indigenous cultures, whose impeccable dress, mysticism, and warmth adds vibrancy and life to the journey.

While passing shepherds and their herds of goats as they amble down the same cobblestone path, it is captivating to imagine life in the 15th and 16th centuries. Even creating these roads, without iron tools, the wheel, or draft animals—seems unfathomable. Incredibly, the roads trace a level, horizontal line, traversing the steep slopes of the hillsides. It is in this position that the elevated roads were intentionally built in order to remain above the persistent risk of landslides yet below exposed ridges.

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The goats pay no attention to my rumbling bike, and the indigenous woman shepherding them up the road seems indifferent if not slightly confused by my fleeting presence.

This beautiful stretch of the ancient Inca highway leads to one of Ecuador’s old colonial farm estates, with an elegant, gated archway to pass beneath—seeming like a portal that transports you into another time.

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Arriving at these grand estates, these haciendas, as they are called, feels like stepping back into the past. Some of the historical farmhouses date as far back as the 16th century, preserved remnants of the Spanish colonies which settled here.

Horses slowly cross in front of the bike as I ride further up the driveway, dairy cows enjoy the lush pastures off to the east. A large Swiss Mountain dog runs up to greet me as I find the most level spot on the mossy stones for the kickstand.

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Many of these haciendas have opened their doors to the public, renovated into hotels while retaining much of their original architecture, gardens, small chapels, and massive, shade-giving trees. The aesthetics and ambience are reminiscent of the “old world,” with many details mixed in from the native cultures.

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Although these estates historically depict the vast inequality, oppression, and population decimation by disease brought by Spanish conquistadores, they’ve now taken on a new dimension as community-led enterprises.

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Such is the case with Hacienda Zuleta, located on the eastern flank of the currently inactive (but not extinct) Imbabura volcano. The roads to reach this location are just as breathtaking as the estate itself, with the towering Imbabura volcano to the east and views of the snowcapped Cayambe volcano to the South. The gates of Zuleta commemorate the more than one hundred years that the Hacienda has been owned by the family of former president Galo Plaza Lasso. While president, Plaza Lasso himself created land reforms which gave substantial tracts of property back to the indigenous people. A farmer at heart, he worked alongside the locals of Zuleta, who still work the land today. The local I met was a fourth generation employee of Hacienda Zuleta. As he showed me the beautiful organic garden which they use in their restaurant and also sell locally, I asked him if they also cultivated culinary mushrooms. To which he replied—“only the magical ones…out in the cow pastures.”

Although I didn’t go checking through piles of cow dung, I did head out further east to see the endangered Andean condor project, known as Condor Wasi. This winding dirt path was a bit more rugged and muddy, but absolutely worth it to see the condors, as well as the ancient, pre-Incan pyramid mounds which were built by the Caranqui civilization, now blanketed by a thick green grass.

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There are four resident Andean condors (two pairs) currently at Zuleta, with one frequently visiting juvenile female. Yann, the biologist, told me that much of their work to educate the Ecuadorian public revolves around dispelling myths—of young virgins, beautiful women, and children being kidnapped away from their villages by condors. These legends have been around for a long time, stories told perhaps to instill fear in order to keep them close to home, and maybe to make sense of the disappearance of young virgins and beautiful women.

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However, condors are a type of vulture, which eat carrion. Their claws are not those which can grasp or carry anything into the air—let alone a human. They do not have the strong talons of eagles or other birds of prey. They wait for animals to die and with their incredible eyesight, scan large areas of land to look for decaying carrion (other vultures use smell). They are the cleanup crew, not hunters.

On my way out of the hacienda, after purchasing some artisan cheese made from the milk of the happy cows I saw grazing in the pasture, I headed back out of the gated estate grounds and toward the small village of Zuleta, where a large herd of alpacas were tending the town’s soccer field. No need to mow the lawn when you’ve got a troop of alpacas! What lay ahead was the back road one of the locals told me about to reach the San Pablo lake, and our next location, Hacienda Cusin.

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This was one of the most beautiful paved roads I’ve enjoyed in the north of Ecuador. Breathtaking views of volcanoes and small farming houses, livestock—including a black pig that excitedly crossed the road in front of me, which seemed to have escaped, with the broken rope still attached to him—shaggy shepherding dogs, and hawks in the sky. Eventually the lake on the horizon, sitting right at the foot of a huge volcano.

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Riding through the little town of Laguna de San Pablo is a treat, with a very cute colonial plaza and huge palms in the center. Hacienda Cusin, established in 1602, is situated just at the edge of town and still encompasses an old monastery. A walled, narrow road takes you along a dirt path and over a small bridge before the opening reveals a lush entrance with colorful colonial houses, filled to the brim with blooming flowers.

This fully restored hacienda is most curious and enjoyable for all its nooks and crannies, its tucked-away gardens, maze-like walls, hidden entrances—some even taking on the feel of a Bond villain’s secret door. Additionally, rather than walking you around on a tour, they give you a map and some information about the history of the hacienda and set you free. This makes for some very organic exploring, which is certainly the best way to discover a new place (in my opinion).

From Hacienda Cusin there is a back way around the eastern flank of the Imbabura volcano, with the road set up higher than the valley below, so the views are absolutely stunning. There are plenty of smaller tributary roads on which to wander as you make your way toward Laguna Yahuarcocha, a glassy expanse of water reflecting a new perspective of the stunning volcano and its often-dramatic surrounding clouds. Taking a loop around the lake is a must. What you’ll find along this loop—in addition to beautiful nature—is Ecuador’s only international raceway.

From the lake, there is a small road which cuts into the mountain, heading northeast over its crest. Passing through some quaint residential areas, you’ll get to one of Ecuador’s remaining Royal Roads, another stretch of the fascinating ancient Inca highway, which are even pre-Incan in some cases. This impressive stone road leads the way to Hacienda Pimán, with a change in scenery to a more dry landscape. Yet again, the climate and ecosystem shift rapidly, just as you might be doing on your motorcycle in order to avoid those stray goats that just sprung out of nowhere.

The dusty white church sits within an oasis of the Chota valley, in the midst of cliffs and ravines, brimming with green leafy trees in contrast to the surrounding ochre desert. This is a meeting point between the land and cultures of the north with those of the south, a mixing point between ethnicities, cultures, climates, and landscapes.

Walking over to a small gate, I was greeted by a lonely donkey, named Pancha, who I fell in love with and had a hard time saying goodbye to when it came time to leave the hacienda. I suggested they find her a companion, to which they assured me they were looking for one.

The grounds of hacienda Pimán seem like the perfect setting to film Zorro, or some other type of legendary swashbuckler movie.

From Hacienda Pimán, you can return the way you came or make a loop around to head south, toward a collection of snowcapped volcanoes and the wildlife reserve, Hacienda Jimenita. There is plenty to experience on the way, such as a visit to Cotacachi, a village known for its well-crafted leatherwork, and the city of Otavalo with its renowned, exhilarating market filled with traditional, colorful, handcrafted textiles and embroidery, and Parque Condor, where you can see rescued falconry at work with a beautiful view of the area.

Hacienda Jimenita is tucked away in a little neighborhood in the town of Pifo, and famed for the wildlife it preserves within its land as well as a mysterious, pre-Incan tunnel. This farm estate has been in the family for four generations, and it was the grandfather who was a treasure hunter, and thus discovered many ancient artifacts, such as pottery and carved obsidian, in the area. One day, the pregnant family Rottweiler disappeared to give birth to her pups. After a couple of days, when they saw her, they followed her to a hole in the rock where they felt a cool breeze blowing through. They dug at the loose soil to not only discover a litter of puppies, but a well-preserved, ancient Inca tunnel!

The tunnel has since been dug out, and a candle-lit lantern tour in the evening is both exciting and a little creepy. Incredibly, across the steep valley, you can see a hole in the rock that perfectly matches that of the shape of the tunnel in Hacienda Jimenita. Apparently a violent earthquake ripped open the earth, creating this steep valley ravine, and separating the other side of the tunnel. This other side has yet to be explored or excavated, as some serious rappelling equipment and skill is needed to access it. Until then, we have yet to know where this tunnel leads and what treasures it might hold.

As if this curious tunnel wasn’t enough to draw you in, the family’s friendly French bulldog will take you on a walk down the estate’s system of flower-filled trails to see the resident alpacas. This Hacienda is a wonderful place to stay on your days coming or going from Quito’s airport, as most flights arrive and leave in the middle of the night, it is very near and they’ll pick you up or drop you off.

From Hacienda Jimenita, I highly recommend heading up toward the base of the Antisana volcano, and to Jocotoco Antisanilla reserve where you can see wild endangered Andean condors nesting on the cliffs and sometimes feeding on carcasses in the landscape.

There are plenty more haciendas to visit during your time in Ecuador, and best of all, many of the Royal Roads will lead the way.