A Motorcyclist’s Escape To The Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies travels 144 miles from Jasper to Lake Louise, through Banff and Jasper National Parks in the province of Alberta. On its way it passes glaciers, mountain peaks, waterfalls, and caribbean-colored lakes, making it one of the most dramatic stretches of two-lane tarmac in North America.

For those of us on the East Coast it seems impossibly far away, which makes its lure all the stronger. The open arms of the mountains promise untold discoveries, and as it parallels the Continental Divide, its worlds-away cast gives fruit for aspirational daydreaming. Imagining yourself dismounting your bike, putting on your hiking boots, slinging a pack over your shoulder, and choosing one of several hikes at the Valley of the Ten Peaks goes a long way in battling ennui.

Highway 93, the Icefields Parkway. From Jasper, Highway 93 travels nearly 3,000 miles into Arizona, passing the Hoover Dam on its way. The Icefields Parkway is the crown jewel. Although it’s easily accessible, limited cell service and accommodations along the way give it an untrammeled aspect perfect for cyclists looking to bask in the splendor of the scenery.

Pack a lunch to eat on one of the many hiking trails. The only restaurant on the parkway is at Saskatchewan River Crossing, 49 miles from Lake Louise. It also has the only gas station on the parkway, so plan accordingly. An element of roughing it is just what a trip like this deserves. When a landscape is so overwhelmingly beautiful, austere accommodations are the perfect complement.

For a nice diversion, take a 2-mile hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House, built for hikers in 1901 by the Canadian Pacific Railway. Now’s your chance to jam out to “Canadian Railroad Trilogy.” The rustic tea house serves tea, sandwiches, and other basic fare. Go there for the view and to stretch your legs.

Lems Boulder boot. If you’re riding 2,000 miles to get to the parkway, taking up half a pannier with a pair of hiking boots isn’t ideal. Lems Boulder boots have a flexible outsole that allows them to be folded up to take up less space, and they still have the grit to keep your feet happy on the trail.