Best Affordable Used Motorcycles for New Riders 2022

Who are we kidding? Your first motorcycle will probably be a used one. Totally fine, unless you’re related to oligarchs or made your tech money early. With a little research, number crunching, and intuition, you can score your first streetbike for cheap and enjoy some good riding years.

As mentioned before, a used motorcycle is a numbers game, meaning it’s not a single number—like price. Reliability, value, even how long they’ve made a bike—they all figure into this somewhat subjective exercise. Feel free to tastefully disagree in the comments section.

A frequent question we get is, “Which vintage motorcycle makes a great first bike.” The question is incorrectly worded. It should read, “Should I get a vintage motorcycle as a first bike?” The answer is heck no to the max. Skip to the end for more words about that.

Full disclosure: Prices listed are an aggregate from CycleTrader.com, so they’ll be conservatively high. Other marketplaces like Cragslist or Facebook Marketplace have lower prices, but feature more (and less predictable) variables from an information gathering perspective.

Let’s fire up the first category. Need more tips? Read the Best Affordable Used Motorcycles Any Beginner Can Buy article. Search for a new bike? Read our New Motorcycle Reviews.

With 20-plus years of model history to choose from, the legendary Suzuki SV650 does it all. A relatively low seat height (30.9 to 31.7 inches) meets a light, liquid-cooled, torquey 90-degree V-twin engine that does anything you ask. Early models had cam-chain wear issues along with regulator/rectifier issues. But after 10 years or so, someone probably dealt with any issue that came up. Don’t be afraid of odometers reading north of 30K. But be afraid of bikes that have seen track time or have gone down (obviously). And avoid beaters under $2,500. Look for second- or third-gen models with fuel injection or the goofily-named Gladius models.

Look to pay from $4,000 to about $6,500 as models enter the later 2010s.

Classic then and classic now, the Bonnie is the gateway drug of motorcycles. Aside from the kink in the exhaust routing, fewer oil leaks, and Lucas-free electrics, little separates newer Bonnevilles from the much loved T120 of 1959-74. Inspired by a perfectly restored 1969 T120 example, the reincarnated Bonneville debuted in 2001. Look-and-steer handling, 61-ish horsepower, and spiritually correct vibration add up to a great used bike for beginner riders. Used examples might be much loved, but they weren’t flogged at the track or wheelied to death. Newer Bonnevilles let you enjoy the best of British motorcycling, meaning you get to skip the awful parts of the 100 years that preceded it.

Look to pay $4,500 for mid-aught models, to $8,000 and more as you get into the mid-2010s.

Born of the “tariff beater” years of the 1980s, the 600cc class of supersports begat a 30-year tradition of “liter beater” sportbikes for beginners and squids alike. The Kawasaki ZX-6R was introduced in 1995, but don’t pay attention until 2003, when fuel injection, better brakes, and inverted forks came along. Displacement varied, depending on street or track-ready models, so maybe just stick with the street 636cc variant to avoid confusion. Again, avoid bikes with “race pedigree,” as trackdays greatly shorten a bike’s usable life. In 2013, a bunch of rider aids like traction control and ABS came out, so that’s a big value add.

Look to pay $4,500 for low-aughts models, with prices rising to $7,000–$9,000 as you get into the 2010s.

What bike brings together motosport fanboys (and girls) and the helmet-mohawk crowd? The Gixxer, of course. Since 1992, the venerable GSX-R600 has set the standard for sportbike indoctrination and beginner-rider high jinks. The GSX-R600 got fuel injection early, starting in 2001. In 2006, Suzuki introduced a completely new package and engine, with under-slung exhaust and slipper clutch. Not coincidentally, power bumped up 15 hp or so. Fortunately for beginner riders, those numbers have come down a bit with age, use, and occasional burnouts. Which brings up the obvious watch-out—the previous owner. By design, they endured mistakes, lapsed judgment, and heaps of abuse from their first (more often second) owners. Be skeptical, ask for maintenance receipts, and avoid anything wrecked.

Look to pay $4,750 for early 2000s models, with prices rising to $8,000 for 2010-newer years.

When it comes to inflation and overheated markets, there are winners and losers. If you’re looking for a Sportster, you’re in luck. If you don’t mind carburetion, pre-2007 models mixed gas and air the old-fashioned way. And in 2004, engines were rubber-mounted. You can find deals for days in this little time zone. And if you want newer and fancier, the 2014 XL883 finally got larger brakes with ABS (optional), along with keyless entry, a new speedometer with gear indicator/tachometer, and even a catalytic converter. Pretty sure you’re stoked about that last feature. Jokes aside, it’s a good time to be in the market for a used Sportster.

Look to pay $4,000 for mid-aughts models, with mid-2010 models climbing to $6,000–$8,000, sometimes less.

Five years of continuous production? That qualifies for a buyer’s guide. Since 2017, the updated Honda Rebel has paired freedom with free-thinking to create some of the most fun, innovative, and well-designed metric cruisers around. Past reviews have disqualified the Rebel as a proper metric cruiser. But after careful consideration, Motorcyclist has reversed its stance and now considers the Rebel 300/500/1100 to be an upstanding member of said community. With mid-mount riding position and a short reach to the bars, it’s ideal for beginner riders. Fun fact: If you wanted a Rebel with color in 2017, you had to forgo antilock braking. 2017 ABS versions only came in black. Rebel, indeed.

Look to pay $3,750 for 2017 300 models, with prices climbing to $4,500. The less common 500 models should start at $5,500 or so.

From 1987 to 2007, any KLR650 you pick will be largely the same machine. Whatever the year, you get a 651cc four-stroke DOHC dual-counterbalanced single-cylinder liquid-cooled engine—which can survive anything short of a second apocalypse. The “adventure” in mind when the KLR was designed is different from today’s version. Cases, bags, and docks for a menagerie of electronic devices might be lacking, but a plentiful aftermarket caters to this. Splitting hairs over dual sport versus proper ADV misses the point. You’re a beginner. You need something unkillable that doubles as a pack mule you could physically pick up if need be. Presto, here you go. Consider the 2008–2018 models, which were completely redesigned with 41mm forks, a new swingarm, dual-beam headlight, dual-piston front and rear brake calipers, upgraded cooling system, plus a fairing redesign.

Look to pay $3,500 for mid-2000s models, going up to $5,500 as the mid-2010s roll around.

The other end of the adventure spectrum would be the V-Strom 650. One of the best all-around bikes on the market, it was introduced in 2004. Affectionately known as the “Wee Strom” to its 1,000cc (now 1,050cc) sibling, it outsold the larger version. In 2015, the V-Strom 650 XT came out with spoked wheels (still good for tubeless tires) and more adventure-ish features. That means previous non-XT models might take some work to put it in the dirt. Tires, bash plates, and engine guards might be good things to budget for. But all you need to do is put bags on and fill it with gas to reliably head hundreds of miles in any direction. For real, older versions have a 5.8-gallon tank, which shrank to “only” 5.3 gallons in 2012. ABS became standard in 2012, along with more rear suspension travel.

Look to pay $3,750 at the low end, with prices rising modestly to about $5,500 as models approach 2015.

Turn off Facebook Marketplace, put down your phone, and listen closely. Don’t do it. Nothing good will come of buying an old, unreliable motorcycle as your first motorcycle.

Still reading? Sigh.

If nothing changes your mind, the least we can do is arm you with some knowledge as you fumble your way to Bad Idea-ville.

With the best-handling chassis of any ‘70s Japanese bike, the GS series offers the best UJM performance and value. Best of all, unqualified builders and shade-tree hacks haven’t chopped these bikes to death, unlike many ‘70s-era Honda CBs. You have a fighting chance of finding decent examples. The GS450 was an overachieving four-valve twin (like the subsequent GS500), while the later GS550 was a great midsize four-cylinder. The full-size GS750 was legendary, it saved Suzuki from the financial suicide of its earlier decision to stick with two-strokes until the bitter end. If you see chopped fenders and rear subframes, abort purchase. But if mileage is low, a title is present, and the pre-owned has most of his/her teeth, it’s a calculated risk.

This seems counterintuitive. But almost any BMW will be in much better shape than a Honda CB after 40-plus years. Being a less-desired model, there’s less chance it’s been molested by frame hoops, terrible wiring, and brown seats. It’s likely been well cared for by a somewhat older BMW aficionado who wants to pass it on to a deserving next owner. Introduced in 1978, the BMW R65 was an easy midsize addition to their lineup. It features the classic boxer look with the same frame as larger siblings, just with a smaller subframe and swingarm. Don’t be scared by 40K odometers—BMW miles are not like Honda or Kawasaki miles. They’re fine for 100K miles with the usual maintenance BMW POs are known for.